It has come to my understanding that one of the best ways to experience a foreign country in an authentic way is to find friends, people you can relate to, or simply travel buddies, who are open to foreigners, and are knowledgeable of the traditions, festivals, and culture. The friends I have made here from Spain are exceptional in all of their qualities; outgoing, friendly, open, speak english, and above all, good guys. I really have been blessed with the personalities around me. This past weekend I left Pamplona to visit the home town of my friend Sam. The city is called Logroño, it is the capital of the Communidad La Rioja. It is well known for its wines, and on September 21st, the 9 day celebration for its Patron Saint San Mateo had begun, and I was there for to experience the first weekend. For a quick reference check out this page...
http://www.travelinginspain.com/spain_festivals/san_mateo.htm
The strategy was something like this...around 9 go out for dinner. Dinner = pincho tour. So Pablo, Sam and I pooled 10 euro each and went to 3 or 4 different bars. Since the crowds were so thick Sam had the cash and would infiltrate the defenses of people surrounding the bar to order the small, flavorful, rations. They ranged from skewered pieces of chicken with a glaze of honey, deep fried green and red peppers, grilled mushroom caps served upside down with melted butter sitting inside the caps bowl w shrimp on top, small sandwiches with ham, peppers and an olive oil cream sauce, and the latest edition to my list of weird foods, grilled pig's face. Now, this would not have been a problem but the previous day I saw the pigs face in the meat section of grocery store, intact, ready to be cooked and cut, and I had some trouble enjoying it, but I endured and the taste and texture was great, even though you could clearly make out the snout shapes in each bite. mmm. Each pincho was accompanied by a caña. A caña is a small glass of beer of about 5-10 ounces depending on the bar. The whole point is to enjoy the flavor and the simplicity of the food and drink. 3 guys, 3 pinchos, 3 cañas...6 euros, what a deal.
After the pinchos we ventured back to the flat at about 12 to start, yes start drinking. Remember, that's totally normal here. After enjoying some rum and cokes, 007's, and San Miguel cerveza, it was time to go out to the pubs. Outside in the small streets the people packed in like cattle. There was a concert starting in the town's central plaza that started at midnight, the music could be heard clearly all throughout the city. I brought a jacket but didn't even need it since so much body heat was radiating in the catacomb of cobble stone spanish streets. We went to 2 or 3 different pubs but they were awfully hot and crowded. The tactic was hit and move on, never staying at a pub for more than a drink, there was just too much to see. Next, is the disco. Yes the next chapter is where the dancing begins. We ended up at one of the 2 local discos and we never even made it onto the main dance floor for more than 10 minutes. We posted up in a not too crowded area and avoided the sweat and chaos of the dance floor area. We were free to move around, dance, drink, maintain some dialogues with those around us allowing us to make some more Spanish friend. At this point in the morning, you see first hand how how the endurance of the Spanish bladder begins to outshine the rest of the world, they just keep going! Unlike the others, I had to eat consistently through the night, probably 3 times up to this point aside from pinchos. We left the disco and made a pit stop at doner kebab, a popular turkish chain that serves gyro type sandwiches. The gyro offered some fuel that would prepare us for the for the bull ring. Reminder, this is not just me and my friends having a wild night...it is tradition and everyone old and young is still up and adam.
At 9am, the plaza de toros or bull ring opens up to the public. We got there around 830am and somehow managed to walk in through the door that bullfighters walk in through. Not intentionally or sneaking in, we just moseyed in! We found a spot on the ground level where the only thing separating you from the bull is a wooden fence! This is where police, ambulance and VIP stand and we were there! As the seats of the stadium filled up almost to capacity the main doors opened up to introduce soccer players dressed up in drag. They start playing, whats the big deal right? Well, probably the bull that comes charging out of the doors into the ring where they are playing! These guys continued to play as a angry bull ran feverishly after the players with horns bearing down on their heels. Just as the bull would get a snag of cloth the players would leap up onto the fence and out of the bulls way! This event is the epitome of entertainment. Once the game concluded, the floor was open to any takers, including; yours truly. That's right! I stepped out on the yellow sand to get a taste of what this is all about and I felt like a kid on Christmas, completely unaware of the fact that I had been up for 24 hours. My adrenaline was flowing, my heart was pumping, and I was grinning ear to ear. That adrenaline was certainly needed too, when that bull lined me up in his sights, he dragged his hoof back digging a small trench in the sand, lowered his head, and took off with the intention of turning me into a rag doll! When he was within 10 yards I managed to pull myself up on top of the 8 foot fence effortlessly as his horns grazed along the barrier right below my feet. For the Spaniard, this is San Mateo. For me, it was an experience I will never forget. Not everyone was so lucky, there were two or 3 guys that really messed with the bull...and you know what they got!
After they let out about 6 bulls out, one at a time, this particular event was about to come to a close. The three of us walked towards the nearest door which we thought was a general exit. Sam asked the man if we could be let out. We didn't realize the door is the entrance and exit for the bull fighters and their teams. It is almost identical in style where football teams enter and exit a stadium. He opened the door specifically for us, why we still don't know, and we realized it was definitely not a door used for general admission. We walked through the area where the Spanish horses are corralled and the bull fighters prepare all of their equipment and their teams. On the walls to our left and right, 20 feet or more off the ground were mounted heads of bulls from the past, most likely because they put up such a great fight/show. Finally, we left through a huge, tall, alluminum rear door that leads from the stadium to the outside, only us 3. The same door that only permits the trucks carrying prized bulls and horses to load and unload, where famous bullfighters enter and exit; we were left amazed, ecstatic and in complete "udder shock".
There is a Spanish expression Pablo told me right after we left. It goes: "Salir por la puerta grande". Its exact translation is, "To leave through the big door". This is a common Spanish idiom that refers to a bull fighter leaving the bull ring once he has done his job, and everyone understands it as; to leave with great success.
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
Teaching and Mama Mia
Last Thursday I had the opportunity to do something I will never forget. I was asked to substitute teach for a college level business communications course. Talk about jumping in headfirst! I do not start teaching until January, so this was quite a jump start. The 3 hour long class was split between myself and an American colleague. I took the first hour and 15. I was offered to take any topic from the list on the syllabus, I chose to speak about argument, negotiations, theory, and influence. With a communications background and the training and classes I took at RBI professional sales school I felt more than prepared to take on this task. The most difficult part was not getting up and presenting in front of the students, it was just to be convincing with what I taught, solely because there were 40 18-22 year olds, probably thinking."What the hell does this guy know?" It didn't help when 8 different people out of the class said apprehensively, "Are..you.. the professor?" For my first class of teaching, ever, in my life, I thought it went quite well. It took about a days worth of prepping, and I did the best I could with what I had, engaged the students with open dialogue and didn't trip on my words, or shoe laces. I almost feel bad for being such a wise ass in elementary and high school for those teachers who seriously take the time to put together lesson plans for a year long or semester course. Almost.
After I left class I headed to meet up with Pablo across town. One really cool thing I had the chance to experience was the musical Mama Mia here in Pamplona. The theater group, who puts on the show has been travelling throughout Spain for about 5 years, is making a two week stop here and I was able to take advantage. I really want to use my money wisely to experience Spain in an authentic, non touristy way. One way will be through my work which sends me throughout the country, and the other is through nights out doing something like this, seeing a Spanish musical or doing something only accessible to a Spaniard. I went to the show with Pablo and his girlfriend and we had really good time. Some of the music or dialogue required Pablo to lean over and offer a quick synopsis of the conversation, but in general the language was clear and pronounced well in Spanish which made it much more understandable. What didn't need explaining was the all the Abba songs accompanied by flashy outfits.
After I left class I headed to meet up with Pablo across town. One really cool thing I had the chance to experience was the musical Mama Mia here in Pamplona. The theater group, who puts on the show has been travelling throughout Spain for about 5 years, is making a two week stop here and I was able to take advantage. I really want to use my money wisely to experience Spain in an authentic, non touristy way. One way will be through my work which sends me throughout the country, and the other is through nights out doing something like this, seeing a Spanish musical or doing something only accessible to a Spaniard. I went to the show with Pablo and his girlfriend and we had really good time. Some of the music or dialogue required Pablo to lean over and offer a quick synopsis of the conversation, but in general the language was clear and pronounced well in Spanish which made it much more understandable. What didn't need explaining was the all the Abba songs accompanied by flashy outfits.
Kitchen and foods
My cooking has continued to improve. As much as I enjoyed cooking in the states, it was not often enough. The kitchen; is now my laboratory. I have put together something of the best meals I have ever cooked in these past 4 weeks on the simple basis of, "OK eggs, you taste delicious when I cook you by yourselves, now, lets see how you taste with your international friends chorizo and morcilla!!" Maybe I can mix you mrs. pasta with mr. rice and throw in some pechuga de pavo, and boom! Simple, succulent, and sooo savory. Mind you almost everything can be cooked with home grown extra virgin olive oil, which can go on everything from toast to a stapler, depending on how hungry I am. I think that its my concept of "meal" that makes them so good, its simplicity. Prior to cooking I just ask myself, what will be my protein, carb, and veggies? Thats it! All I buy from the store is fresh meats, veggies, fruits, and some other essentials. Mainly because its economical but its all so natural. Whatever is in my food pantry is what I have to work with so it forces me do the best I can with what I have. Seasonings are always involved to liven things up.
I really think whenever your approaching the kitchen around meal time, it should be full of enticing smells that transform your nose into a general who directs your body exactly to the source. I also like to mix everything after cooking each item individually. Just looking at a steaming plate with colorful greens, reds, fresh meats, seasoning makes me shed a tear.
The bread here is something else. It is incredibly good. Why they haven't opened a bagel place is beyond me because it might just be the next best thing, ...since sliced bread! ahh terrible joke sorry. No matter what day it is a panaderia will be open pumping out fresh bread. The bread used for meals is purchased on a daily basis and spaniards use it for all their meals. The bread goes beyond just a delicious carb that you munch on before your meal or toasted with some budda, here its used a a second fork. One hand is for prodding, the other is for scooping with your pan, the bite ratio is probably 3:1 food:bread. Since most of the traditional meals here are cooked in some broth/type/olive oil sauce, every flavor is collected, and your left to enjoy those enhanced flavors soaked up in the bread. ¡qué rico!
In almost every kitchen in Spain there is a pigs leg. Yea, just sitting there, hoof too. It is not cooked, it has been cured for about a year in nothing but salt. No cooking, no frying, no nothing. If you like prosciutto, then you should know this is very similar, just a whole lot better. The pig farms that produce the meat are regulated by an organization to recognize their level of ranking in the meat industry. The best is "Jamón ibérico, Iberian ham, also called pata negra, is a type of cured ham produced only in Spain. It is at least 75% black Iberian pig, also called the cerdo negro (black pig)....The finest jamón ibérico is called jamón ibérico de bellota (acorn). This ham is from free-range pigs that roam oak forests (called la dehesa) along the border between Spain and Portugal, and eat only acorns during this last period." -From the web
It's so good, I had a leg vacuum sealed, and I brought it back to the states.
I really think whenever your approaching the kitchen around meal time, it should be full of enticing smells that transform your nose into a general who directs your body exactly to the source. I also like to mix everything after cooking each item individually. Just looking at a steaming plate with colorful greens, reds, fresh meats, seasoning makes me shed a tear.
The bread here is something else. It is incredibly good. Why they haven't opened a bagel place is beyond me because it might just be the next best thing, ...since sliced bread! ahh terrible joke sorry. No matter what day it is a panaderia will be open pumping out fresh bread. The bread used for meals is purchased on a daily basis and spaniards use it for all their meals. The bread goes beyond just a delicious carb that you munch on before your meal or toasted with some budda, here its used a a second fork. One hand is for prodding, the other is for scooping with your pan, the bite ratio is probably 3:1 food:bread. Since most of the traditional meals here are cooked in some broth/type/olive oil sauce, every flavor is collected, and your left to enjoy those enhanced flavors soaked up in the bread. ¡qué rico!
In almost every kitchen in Spain there is a pigs leg. Yea, just sitting there, hoof too. It is not cooked, it has been cured for about a year in nothing but salt. No cooking, no frying, no nothing. If you like prosciutto, then you should know this is very similar, just a whole lot better. The pig farms that produce the meat are regulated by an organization to recognize their level of ranking in the meat industry. The best is "Jamón ibérico, Iberian ham, also called pata negra, is a type of cured ham produced only in Spain. It is at least 75% black Iberian pig, also called the cerdo negro (black pig)....The finest jamón ibérico is called jamón ibérico de bellota (acorn). This ham is from free-range pigs that roam oak forests (called la dehesa) along the border between Spain and Portugal, and eat only acorns during this last period." -From the web
It's so good, I had a leg vacuum sealed, and I brought it back to the states.
Thursday, September 10, 2009
Work and Weather Sept 10. 09
I went to get my first haircut in Spain ever and it was pretty scary. I mean you're hair is who you are, unless you do not have any. I had researched and looked up and read all the different ways of asking and describing ways to get a haircut, memorized a few lines and words, and said let's do it!!....all up until I walked in to the barber shop, pointed at a huge photo of a good haircut and said. Duhh Me wunt dat wun, in espanol of course. I am happy with my results.
The barber told me the weather we're having is very rare for Pamplona. Usually in the summer they only experience about 2 weeks of really nice warm summer air. It was been in the 80's and 90's every day since I arrived and I love it. Whats also interesting is how the warm air does not hold into the night, it changes soo fast because the town is surrounded by mountains. So if its 85 during the day it can be 45 at night, if its sunny at noon it can be raining and sunny again by 3, its funky, but the least of my worries.
Work has officially gone underway, I got a desk! I am the mann. Ha! I have 3 different jobs. First I am an assistant professor in the department of economics and business administration. I am working as a ayudante, which is like a TA, for a prof who teaches strategic management. I'm paying close attention because I am teaching this class next semester. My second job is in international and national promotions. I will be going to high schools all over spain to prospect students and sell the school. Internationally I will be going to Brussels to a few high schools to give presentations on the programs available and invite the students back to UNAV. Once they arrive here instead of presentations they go to actual classes, see if they like the school, then apply for an admissions test. One of the special projects I will be working on is for the International Forum. This is a contest where students from all over Europe submit an essay on a particular subject. The subjects in the past few years have been Peace in Jerusalem, Africa, and last year was Russia. Once they submit the essay about 100 are invited to come to UNAV and compete in a tribunal, one aspect of this is to come to the university with a presentation/power point high lighting their essay and present it to judges from around the world, the judges are public officials, business people, educators etc. The winner receives a grant and that grant goes to the organization or charity of their choosing. The competition will brings in a lot of publicity for the university and top notch hs students. The competition is in February and preparation is starting now, I'll talk about it more when it comes up. By the way...the work schedule...in general...9-2(with a coffee and snack break in the cafeteria around 11, which is the spanish almuerzo/lunch) then go home and have your big meal of the day(called comida), recharge with a small power nap or just lounge and then head back to the office from 4-7 or 330 -630 or whatever works. It is such a different and balanced day. It is designed around the fact that the middle of the day is when it is hottest and it is time to be inside, eat, cool off, and chill with the family. It also lets your brain get some R&R for the rest of the day. Between 2 and 5 everything is shut down. This leaves you feeling fresh once you get out of work to enjoy your evening by sitting outside at a local bar to enjoy some pinchos. It also lets you stay up a little later. Most people are in bed around 12/1am to get their daily dose of decent sleep.
The barber told me the weather we're having is very rare for Pamplona. Usually in the summer they only experience about 2 weeks of really nice warm summer air. It was been in the 80's and 90's every day since I arrived and I love it. Whats also interesting is how the warm air does not hold into the night, it changes soo fast because the town is surrounded by mountains. So if its 85 during the day it can be 45 at night, if its sunny at noon it can be raining and sunny again by 3, its funky, but the least of my worries.
Work has officially gone underway, I got a desk! I am the mann. Ha! I have 3 different jobs. First I am an assistant professor in the department of economics and business administration. I am working as a ayudante, which is like a TA, for a prof who teaches strategic management. I'm paying close attention because I am teaching this class next semester. My second job is in international and national promotions. I will be going to high schools all over spain to prospect students and sell the school. Internationally I will be going to Brussels to a few high schools to give presentations on the programs available and invite the students back to UNAV. Once they arrive here instead of presentations they go to actual classes, see if they like the school, then apply for an admissions test. One of the special projects I will be working on is for the International Forum. This is a contest where students from all over Europe submit an essay on a particular subject. The subjects in the past few years have been Peace in Jerusalem, Africa, and last year was Russia. Once they submit the essay about 100 are invited to come to UNAV and compete in a tribunal, one aspect of this is to come to the university with a presentation/power point high lighting their essay and present it to judges from around the world, the judges are public officials, business people, educators etc. The winner receives a grant and that grant goes to the organization or charity of their choosing. The competition will brings in a lot of publicity for the university and top notch hs students. The competition is in February and preparation is starting now, I'll talk about it more when it comes up. By the way...the work schedule...in general...9-2(with a coffee and snack break in the cafeteria around 11, which is the spanish almuerzo/lunch) then go home and have your big meal of the day(called comida), recharge with a small power nap or just lounge and then head back to the office from 4-7 or 330 -630 or whatever works. It is such a different and balanced day. It is designed around the fact that the middle of the day is when it is hottest and it is time to be inside, eat, cool off, and chill with the family. It also lets your brain get some R&R for the rest of the day. Between 2 and 5 everything is shut down. This leaves you feeling fresh once you get out of work to enjoy your evening by sitting outside at a local bar to enjoy some pinchos. It also lets you stay up a little later. Most people are in bed around 12/1am to get their daily dose of decent sleep.
Wednesday, September 9, 2009
Weekend warrior September 9th 2009
Its been a crazy week. 2 nights ending at I don't want to disclose when a.m. Singing Frank Sinatra at the top of my lungs while trekking home. Saying goodbye to nick, who is a complete character from India that words cannot express him. Meeting Pablo and Fran and slowwwly getting my job details. A lot has gone on...
6:30, 7:30am. Late isn't it? But whats the difference, no need to grumble. I agree it doesn't do a body good but that is how they do it here. Spaniards are like vampires, they go out all night and sleep all day, then do it over again. Thursday evening I went out with new roommate Pablo and his best friend Sam and we went to a club called Vaiven (bye-ben). It was a great night. We danced and I met some Spanish lady friends of theirs. Its great to meet friends of Spaniards, girls and guys, because, like anywhere else; everyone has their people or groups, so since coming here it is hard to be a part of a good group of friends, but since my roommate is from Spain, hes a good guy with good friends. After an eventful Thursday night(or Friday am), I just had to get sleep the next night.
Well 11pm Friday night did come and I hit the hay. After sleeping for maybe 20 minutes, I couldn't stay asleep because my Venezuelan friend was bustin chops, ok so SHE was calling me a little girl for not wanting to go out!! Well! Nobody calls marty a little girl! I am not one to give into peer pressure but the cold shoulder, or I am asleep method, did not seem to work. Long story short...went out to the first bar called boca boca. Nick brought us there and it was fun but kind of radical, (crazy hair, tight pants, the 80's styles are goin stronggg here), since that wasnt enough, around 3 it was time to go to Marengo, the place where all the young people seems to end up at in Pamplona. There must not be any laws about amount of people in one place because we squeeezed in like cattle, danced and sweat our butts off, and when I looked at the clock it was about 7, or 6, or is that the big hand or little hand, or...who knows. Pablo loves frank sinatra, in Spain they call sinatra "la voz", which means "the voice" and we sang sinatra the entire walk home, nuff said.
Pablo, my roommate, is from Castellon. He is the man. He speaks excellent english because each summer his rents sent him to england for about a month to learn the language. He and I have been getting along really well and I am looking forward to the months ahead. Fran my other roommate just got here on monday but so far seems like a good fit too. He is really into biking and I think he wants to be the next Alberto Contador, but I told him to not to bother because lance Armstrong dosen't age.
6:30, 7:30am. Late isn't it? But whats the difference, no need to grumble. I agree it doesn't do a body good but that is how they do it here. Spaniards are like vampires, they go out all night and sleep all day, then do it over again. Thursday evening I went out with new roommate Pablo and his best friend Sam and we went to a club called Vaiven (bye-ben). It was a great night. We danced and I met some Spanish lady friends of theirs. Its great to meet friends of Spaniards, girls and guys, because, like anywhere else; everyone has their people or groups, so since coming here it is hard to be a part of a good group of friends, but since my roommate is from Spain, hes a good guy with good friends. After an eventful Thursday night(or Friday am), I just had to get sleep the next night.
Well 11pm Friday night did come and I hit the hay. After sleeping for maybe 20 minutes, I couldn't stay asleep because my Venezuelan friend was bustin chops, ok so SHE was calling me a little girl for not wanting to go out!! Well! Nobody calls marty a little girl! I am not one to give into peer pressure but the cold shoulder, or I am asleep method, did not seem to work. Long story short...went out to the first bar called boca boca. Nick brought us there and it was fun but kind of radical, (crazy hair, tight pants, the 80's styles are goin stronggg here), since that wasnt enough, around 3 it was time to go to Marengo, the place where all the young people seems to end up at in Pamplona. There must not be any laws about amount of people in one place because we squeeezed in like cattle, danced and sweat our butts off, and when I looked at the clock it was about 7, or 6, or is that the big hand or little hand, or...who knows. Pablo loves frank sinatra, in Spain they call sinatra "la voz", which means "the voice" and we sang sinatra the entire walk home, nuff said.
Pablo, my roommate, is from Castellon. He is the man. He speaks excellent english because each summer his rents sent him to england for about a month to learn the language. He and I have been getting along really well and I am looking forward to the months ahead. Fran my other roommate just got here on monday but so far seems like a good fit too. He is really into biking and I think he wants to be the next Alberto Contador, but I told him to not to bother because lance Armstrong dosen't age.
Tuesday, September 1, 2009
Kick off lunch and research center 8.30.09
This afternoon was the annual kick off lunch for the faculty/dept. of economics and business administration . It was a huge success! Not only was there good food served, but I met some very interesting people and was able to practice a lot of Spanish. Dressed in my finest the lunch was formal attire. It was held in the university's main building in a lounge that would make you feel like you were sitting down to a grand medieval banquet. The room was aloft the general dining room area and accessible only by a wooden spiral staircase, walls were made of large stones with large shields with crests hanging throughout, I thought I'd be eating a giant turkey leg and drinking from a steel chalice. We had croquetas(small round balls of fried rice and cheese), followed by a light salad with thin slices of jamon iberico. The entree was a small steak with french fries(they do love patatas here), and desert, was cómo se dice, ridiculoussss, it was like crème brulée sandwich with a midsection of rich sweet, super, sweet, cream. Que rico!
I was joined at the table by other ayudantes and masters students from Indiana, China, Venezuela, Spain and England. I was very fortunate to sit next to the former dean of economics at the university of navarra. He was originally a professor than was dean for about 20 years. He still works within the faculty teaching some courses but predominantly coordinates bringing international students to Spain and sending Spaniards to the US for different types of work. He told me about his business plan near completion; to open a center for the study and research of global poverty, it would be the only one in Spain. The possibility for working with him is apparent and one aspect of this job would be to go to a poverty stricken country like Kenya for research. The intention of the trip would be to meet with locals and gather research and information to bring back to Spain. His objective or mission statement, in short, is to find ways to give people the tools to help them find their way out of extreme poverty. I will post any more information about this when it arises in the future. Is anyone actually reading this?
I was joined at the table by other ayudantes and masters students from Indiana, China, Venezuela, Spain and England. I was very fortunate to sit next to the former dean of economics at the university of navarra. He was originally a professor than was dean for about 20 years. He still works within the faculty teaching some courses but predominantly coordinates bringing international students to Spain and sending Spaniards to the US for different types of work. He told me about his business plan near completion; to open a center for the study and research of global poverty, it would be the only one in Spain. The possibility for working with him is apparent and one aspect of this job would be to go to a poverty stricken country like Kenya for research. The intention of the trip would be to meet with locals and gather research and information to bring back to Spain. His objective or mission statement, in short, is to find ways to give people the tools to help them find their way out of extreme poverty. I will post any more information about this when it arises in the future. Is anyone actually reading this?
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